Metro and Mixup

Our first full day in Rome started with a short walk to the Spanish steps – just a couple of blocks from our hotel.

Then we climbed up the steps to the church of Trinita dei Monti – where we got this nice view of the city aand the Vatican. After a brief visit inside the 17th century church we were off to the Spagna Metro station. We wanted to visit St Paul Outside the Walls and that meant a ride on the Rome Metro. Even though it was midweek and after the morning rush, the Metro was absolutely jammed. When we changed at Termini things were even more jammed. It was a relief to arrive at the San Paolo Metro station and take a short walk to the Basilica.

The entrance to the Basilica is quite impressive.

 

And because it is a major basilica. St Paul’s had a Holy Door open in the Year of Mercy. So we went in that way.

The interior is also very impressive. St Paul’s is laid out like a typical 5th century Roman church, and the original Basilica was here since 380 or so. However the present church is a 19th century reproduction, since the old basilica was destroyed by fire in the 1820s. Nice job of restoration though.

And for all you Pauline fans out there, here is the tomb of the Apostle himself.

Back on the Metro we went, back to Central Rome. Since we were already being crushed, we stayed on to the Vatican for a quick visit. St Peter’s was even more crowded than St Paul’s so we just took a quick look around the square and then decided to walk back to our hotel. That’s when our mixup began.

It seemed straightforward enough. First we walked along a broad busy avenue to Castel Sant’Angelo.

Then we had to go across the Tiber. At this point the smart thing to do was walk along the river and go to Piazza del Popolo. But it’s been a while, we weren’t sure so we forged ahead straight into the bowels of Rome.

We were never that lost, but it was a longer walk than we thought. Maria stopped a couple of times to ask directions.

By the time we reached this famous church of Sant’Andrea we were within a couple of blocks of the Victor Emmanuel monument and the familiar Via del Corso. Up the well known del Corso we went.

We took a slight detour off del Corso to visit this strange fountain – which looks gorgeously restored by the way. Many people were busy throwing coins into it (don’t ask why.)

After that it was a pleasant jaunt through side streets to the Hotel Condotti. We took a foot resting break and after that we headed out to have dinner at Di Qua. We enjoyed some of the best gnocchi we have ever had and after that it was back to the hotel. Not a bad second day in Rome.

To Rome (and Back)

Well we’ve been away – most of the month in fact – but we’re back. In three weeks we visited:

  • The UK
  • Italy
  • France
  • Spain
  • The US

Now the only person who’d be crazy enough to make a trip like this – aside from Justin Bieber – would be someone taking a Transatlantic cruise. That’s the ticket.

I’m going to do some blogs on the trip and share some photos. I didn’t post live updates because I’m a dinosaur and I worry about home security. It’ll probably take me longer to post than it did to take the trip. Here goes.

We started out on Nov 1 by driving to Montreal, dropping off the car at Park n’ Fly and heading to the airport. There’s Maria above waiting with her book and carry on. We had an overnight flight to Heathrow on British Airways, a stopover there and a connection to Rome.

It was a Dickensian trip – the best of flights, the worst of flights. We started off by winning the BA lottery. Our names were called out and we got an upgrade to business class courtesy of our BA loyalty card. So this was the best of flights – great food, fully reclining seats, the chance to catch a bit more sleep on the way to London. Once we got there we walked over to the Transfer desk, and commenced our wait. Maria took advantage of the wait to do some shopping in the Duty Free (Fortnum and Mason tea mostly) while I hung out and got over the slight jetlag so far. Some brunch in the terminal and some decent (by UK standards) coffee and we were feeling a lot chippier.

Our flight was called and it was time for the worst of flights. First of all BA announced that the flight was chokka-block with people and there would be no room for all the carry-on baggage. When will airlines get it that they created this problem themselves by charging a fortune to check regular baggage? Anyway we decided that rather than fight for rack space on the plane we’d check Maria’s carry-on.

Then we crammed ourselves with 200 of our closest fellow travelers into the back of a barebones Airbus 321 – no screens, no audio, nothing. Maria’s seatmate had a cold. What a joyful ride this was. After three hours of bliss we arrived at Fiumicino airport. The checked bag arrived right away. The other stuff took a while but we got it.

Things improved after that. I had arranged for transport to our hotel and a nice young man picked us up in a Renault minivan. He and Maria chatted amiably in Italian while he navigated the steets of Rome and got us safely to the Hotel Condotti near the Spanish Steps.

Our hotel room was surprisingly spacious and quiet. We had a sitting area as well.

After a pleasant meal at doRis Ristorante (great house wine) we settled down for our first night in the Eternal City.

cww trust seal